Wednesday, October 10, 2007

catching up




Kazakhstan is as I imagined. It reminds me of Sarajevo minus the bombs and suffering. The architecture is bleak and grey. Some of the streets are unpaved but they seem to be on the move. There is construction around the city and lots of traffic. Commerce is abuzz here.

We arrived this early this morning after our last leg on an aging Boing 757-300. The trip took about 5 hours and took us well into the steepes of the mother heartland of upper Asia. We were obliterated after a 7 hour trip across “the pond” and a 15 hour lay-over in Frankfurt, Germany. I was able to catch some sleep on the last leg but the anticipation of our destination and the acrid fragrance of a full cabin kept me just out of REM. There was a movie but the improbability of Nicholas Cage speaking fluent Russian quickly disbursed my interest.

Lots of kids on board among families that had that “Eastern European look.” Stoic countenances covered warm hearts and genuine interest in the two “Amerikanskis” traveling to Kazakhstan. We were advised that not everyone here may warm up to the idea of our adoption so we kept our true purpose close to the vest. We did get a confused look or two when we told them that we were coming to Kostani on vacation. The kind a dog gives you when you try to explain Quantum Physics. You know, the head tilted to one side as they give you that look like, “you know I can’t speak human but you’re the most interesting thing in the room right now, and you’re holding a biscuit.”

Terminal 2 in Frankfurt was beautiful. Brand new with cathedral ceilings that had a modern industrial/aircraft hangar accent. Only the Germans can pull that off as a “style.” We passed on the $10 bacon cheese burger from the nicest McDonalds I’ve ever seen and opted for some kind of white sausage from a place that offered local cuisine. Very good!

Upon landing in Kostani we could see the trappings (or left-overs) of the USSR. A fleet of Bi-planes with UN markings crowded the tarmac. We were greeted by a customs agent who had classic Kazakh Asian features. She looked very official in her pressed uniform and was warm and helpful once she realized we don’t speak Russian and had no clue what she was saying as she gave instructions to the passengers waiting to clear customs.

There were a few male Customs agents there to with the big military “service caps.” They could lift off in a stiff wind in those things but I must say they were impeccable, and helpful. Passing through customs in less time than it would take in the U.S. we were greeted by Olessa (our interpreter/coordinator) who informed us that we were going directly to the orphange.

The ride was interesting through urban neighborhoods and on some unpaved streets. The buildings, architecture and general look of the place was reminiscent of what Sarajevo looked like before the war, and perhaps what it looks like today. We passed apartment building after apartment building that looked like they needed a real freshening up. Could be a business opportunity for Prep That House? All the buildings look like they have seen some hard winters…and they have. Winters here are harsh however the temp and conditions today were mild and very pleasant. It was about 50F with clear skies.

Arriving at the orphanage looking like we had been shot out of a wrinkle gun and not showered in two days we proceeded to the Directors/Doctor’s office and had a short meeting and explanation of two children they had selected for us to review. After a few moments they brought him in to meet us. WOW!

He greeted us with a huge smile. He is about 7 months old and sharp as a tack. Alert and happy he showed no outward signs of standoffishness or lethargy. We both held him for a while and honestly I was surprised at how comfortable he seemed. I expected this traumatized little thing that was half scared out if it’s wits but that was not at all the case.

The Doctor was knowledgeable, and with the very capable help and language skills of Oleesa we were able to discuss some details of his short background. He was born 31MAR2007. All of this is subject to the medical review by our pediatrician, Dr Freedman, at CHOP but the child was normal birth weight and height and was presenting no abnormalities.

You think after a 28 hours commute and a trip to the orphanage the minute we arrived that we would just check in at our hotel and collapse but no!... we checked in, unpacked, and prepared for our lunch meeting with Oleesa’a assistant Nellie at 2PM. So we showered, collected our self and went out for a delightful lunch at a local restaurant where I sampled a delicious local dish of beef tongue. I happen to love tongue sandwiches at home so this meal was no disappointment.

We chatted about all kinds of things but most of it was not about the baby. Kazakh language, customs and culture dominated the conversation. I even learned enough to ask for the check without completely embarrassing us.

After that it was off to do some quick shopping for some staples to keep at the room and back to the hotel for a nap. More on all that later because it too proved to be an adventure.

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